Gothic arches, quiet village lanes and views down to the coast: a relaxed guide to visiting Bellapais Abbey and its village on a half-day trip from Kyrenia.
A different world just above Kyrenia
Bellapais Abbey sits at the heart of Bellapais, a small village on the hillside behind Kyrenia. The drive from the centre of town takes roughly 15–20 minutes, yet it swaps the bustle of the harbour for birdsong, stone houses and bougainvillea. From the Dome Hotel on Kordonboyu it is an easy taxi or rental-car trip, and half a day is enough to see both the abbey and the village without rushing.
The last stretch of road winds uphill. As you climb, the Kyrenia coastline and the sea open up behind you, so the view starts working on you before you have even parked.
A short history of the abbey
Bellapais is often counted among the most striking buildings of the Lusignan period in Cyprus. Its first buildings date from the late 12th and early 13th centuries, and the community soon joined the Premonstratensian order, whose canons were known for their white habits, which is why the place is sometimes called the "White Abbey". Much of what you see today, including the church and main ranges, took shape in the second half of the 13th century under King Hugh III.
Architectural historians regard Bellapais as one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in the Eastern Mediterranean. Over the centuries it was plundered, abandoned and partly ruined, but the parts still standing remain wonderfully atmospheric.
What to see at the abbey
The cloister
The most photographed spot is the cloister, framed by pointed Gothic arches. Looking up through the tracery at the sky and the cypress trees is one of the quietest moments of the visit.
The refectory
On the north side of the cloister, the long, high-ceilinged refectory is the abbey's most impressive interior, with windows looking out towards the coast and the sea. The hall is sometimes used for concerts and events, so it is worth checking locally whether anything is on during your stay.
The church and terraces
The church and the terraces around it give wide views over the plain below and down to Kyrenia. Find a shady corner and simply take in the scenery for a few minutes; it may well be the highlight of the trip.
A village stroll and a coffee stop
After the abbey, wander the narrow lanes of the village. Stone houses, flower-filled courtyards and small cafés give Bellapais its unhurried charm. The British writer Lawrence Durrell lived here in the 1950s and described his time in the village in his book Bitter Lemons, so if you have read it, the streets will feel familiar.
Sitting in the shade near the abbey square with a Cypriot coffee or a cold drink is part of the experience. If your half day stretches a little longer here, you are unlikely to regret it.
When to go
Bellapais can be visited all year, but in summer early morning or late afternoon is far more comfortable. The late-afternoon light in particular turns the stone a warm honey colour and is the best time for photographs. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons for walking, while in winter the hillside turns green and the village is even calmer.
Heading back down around sunset, you will see the lights of the coast begin to come on. Ending the day with dinner by the harbour or the sea in Kyrenia rounds it off nicely.
A sample half-day plan
An afternoon trip suits Bellapais well. Leave Kyrenia after lunch and head to the abbey first, giving it at least an hour so you can explore without hurrying. Take a few minutes to sit in the cloister in the shade of the arches.
Then walk down to the village square for a coffee and a short stroll through the lanes, noticing the old doors, the potted plants on the windowsills and the citrus trees leaning over the garden walls. As the sun drops, find a spot near the abbey looking towards the coast, and set off back before dark so you drive the winding road in daylight. Travelling with children? Keep the abbey visit short and the café stop long.
About 15–20 minutes by car from central Kyrenia. Village lanes are narrow and parking can be limited, so a taxi is a good option. The abbey has uneven stone floors and steps: wear comfortable shoes. In summer bring a hat and water. Check opening times and entry details locally before you go.
On Kyrenia harbour since the 1930s. Best rate when you book direct.
